Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Mexicano Auténtico


The 7 train is as much a part of Queens as the Mets are. There's a brewing debate over why there isn’t any "authentic" or "good" Mexican food in New York like there is in Los Angeles? Last time I checked Mexicans are still working at our restaurants, which is a good thing. They run the 7 train, especially during late hours, likely coming back from a long shift at Chef Flay or Chef Boulud restaurants. These Mexicans have to eat somewhere.

I make treks out to Jackson Heights every so often when the weather behaves and today's weather definitely did. I know I keep coming back to this area for a reason. Maybe it's the diversity, grit, hustle, or noise coming from the tracks, or it could simply be that they're serving damn good food under the 7 train. Frommer's, Fodor's and other city guides better start paying attention to Jackson Heights or they will miss out on a big part of New York culture and eats. Today I decided to try Taqueria Coatzingo on 76-05 Roosevelt Ave.; I wanted to prove to myself and the critics that there is good Mexican in New York. Food from the south should be simple. There shouldn’t be any white cream, fire sauce, yellow processed cheese, hard taco, or molten hot melted cheese. A taco should be made with meat or nasty bits, some cilantro, onions, a wedge of lime, a side of radishes wrapped in two corn torillas.

You can find this on taco carts, joints, stands all over Roosevelt Ave. from 61st St to 90th st. Being pretentious, fake, or selling out is a crime here. You will find mom and pops selling food that they grew up eating and are currently eating at home. There's no fancy lighting , decoration or trademarks, street carts have no crazy signs to attract customers. Sometimes signs are being held forks if need be, cheeck the pictures from the Tamale Lady. Don't limit yourself to just tacos, please do try everything that looks good here. I went with for the carnitas, tripa picante, and al pastor today. It was probably the most juicy authentic taco I've had in New York. They were over stuffed and topped with onions, cilantro, and guacamole. It was accompanied with lime, radishes and a roasted jalepeno. Everything just worked. These people down here are eating well and you should envy them. For dessert I suggest you go to a corner stand and get mangoes with lime and chili powder. But I wanted to splurge today so I walked 16 blocks over to 61st St and checked out the Tamale Lady. Should I get the Mexican Hot Chocolate or piping hot tamales? Of course, you know I had to try the tamales. So I got the Mole con Pollo and Salsa Verde, again authentic. This lady was as gentle as your grandmother. You knew these pillows of masa were going to be deliciously made from those hands. Maybe it's the language or the fear of exploring a foreign territory, but be adventurous and get off the 7 train between Main St. to Queensboro Plaza to experience really good authentic Mexican food.

 
Down Under the 7

 
Tacos, Limes, Radishes, Roasted Jalepeno

 
Carnitas (Fried Pork)

 
Al Pastor (Pork on a Spit)

 
Tripa Picante (Spicy Tripe)

 

3 Tacos: $6.53

 
Tamale Cart

 
Menu

 
Tamale Lady

 
Mole con Pollo

 
 Salsa Verde con Pollo

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